Here is the in-depth write-up that I hope can serve as a how-to for OM617-swapping 96-04 Tacomas/4Runners (and T100's).
I picked up this $600 1997 4Runner 5VZ/A340 4x4 (rear e-locker) with roughly 250k miles and it was SHOT! Completely rusted out even though the body doesn't show it. Destroyed interior. Radiator blew up and mixed trans fluid with coolant to make a milkshake in the trans. Now I haven't read a single report of anyone flushing their trans and successfully driving it after that. Even the ones done under warranty at the dealership with the power flush had trans failure shortly after. Keep an eye on your radiator if you've got an automatic! The PO claims he noticed it right away and had it towed home where I picked it up. I flush the trans, added a new radiator, and put another 30k on the 5VZ! I daily drove it to work, used it to tow the mower trailer around, and even drove it 3 hours into Iowa with the trailer to get a band saw. Did a fair amount of wheeling with it, too, enjoying the rear locker. Eventually, it started losing coolant, so the 5VZ got yanked and sold.
The plan for this has always been for R&D. The only money I have into this rig is the new radiator and mounting the free tires someone was throwing away. Sold the 5VZ to cover the purchase. Can't beat that! I'm currently swapping in an OM617. I'll be using the 4Reigner to test trails I'm cutting in our pasture, as well as haul the tree cutting equipment around. Since the frame is already falling apart, I don't expect to keep this around much longer. I had originally planned to do a TDI swap after the 617, but have since decided not to worry about making TDI adapters for the Toyota Automatics, as the torque converter pilot stub would require turning down, and that is probably too much effort for most people. Once the frame folds in half, I'll pull the 617 back out to go into something long-term, and I'll save the rear axle and trans.
So, I'd made a temporary power steering line for mock-up purposes. Thought it'd survive a couple thousand miles at least... nope! It exploded while I was bedding in the new brakes the 1st time. The crooked Dorman pulley made the new pump's life hell, but the failed hose finished it off. Got to wait for RockAuto to take their sweet ass time to send me a replacement. Summit, on the other hand, overnighted me a new brake rotor (despite me telling them a week would be fine). Huge difference in customer service there! The PS line was my fault, as I'd used a hose with too little of pressure rating. Ordered up the Fragola hose I'd been planning to use, anyway. I should've used my own advice and ordered a custom hose with a bend >90°, but for the sake of time, got a built-to-stock 90° hose. It works, but it won't last as long since it has to bend pretty harshly. I also ponied up & got another Trail Gear billet TC pulley.
So here's a pic of where the hose blew out. This thing blew the diesel fuel filter o-ring out twice in a row, requiring 2 top-to-bottom Hotsy baths. Then this happened 32 miles later, requiring a 3rd. At least things shouldn't rust any worse for a while 😂
This is a pic of the 1st undercarriage wash I gave the 4Runner after it was drivable. This is the shit that was falling in my face during the entire swap. This undercarriage washing tool is a godsend: https://amzn.to/3UKjCrA
Here's a shot of the 235's on the rear. I wanted to test as close to 27" tires as I could. These are a hair over 29". The 4Runner would take off so much easier with these. Driving the 29's with 4.30's is essentially the same as it'd be to have 4.56's with 30.6" tires. 27's with the 4.30's would equate to 30.6 and 4.88's, and 4.88's are what I want to go to, especially after trying this setup.